A medieval town a few kilometres from Rome, in the heart of the Veientano countryside: Formello, crossed by the Via Francigena, is rich in history and immersed in a splendid natural landscape.
Starting from the Piazza named after Donato Palmieri, local painter and pupil of Vasari, who painted the frescoes in the church of San Lorenzo, we pass through the 'Porta da Capo' dating back to the Chigi era. From here begins Via XX Settembre, the main road through the town and along which the main buildings are located. On the 15th-century Piazza San Lorenzo are Palazzo Chigi, the Church of San Lorenzo and its Oratory of the Nativity, and the Council Building; continuing on we come to the Church of San Michele Arcangelo and then to the other monumental entrance to the town, the 'Porta da Piedi'. On the opposite side of Piazza Donato Palmieri is Borgo Sant'Antonio, the first quarter built outside the walls in the 1700s and where the municipal washhouse, now the Centre for Engraving and Graphics, was located.
NOT TO BE MISSED
- Palazzo Chigi
Built around a first nucleus of a watchtower (13th century), it was transformed into a noble residence by the Orsini family starting in the mid-1400s.
On the second floor are the rooms of the Novo Apartment of Cardinal Flavio Chigi. The rich collection of the Agro Veientano Museum tells the story and changes undergone by the area from prehistoric times to the modern era, by means of an exceptional selection of works, including in particular a selection of precious grave goods found in Etruscan tombs (tumuli) in the vicinity.
The Building is part of the Historical Houses of Lazio and is home to the Municipal Archive and Library.
Not to be missed: the climb to the New Civic Tower, the result of a contemporary architectural project by the architect Andrea Bruno, passes along an ‘emotional staircase’ which leads to the top of the tower, from where a delightful view of the Formello countryside can be enjoyed.
Each step of the staircase bears the name of a stage of the via Francigena. - Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Of medieval origins but with a Renaissance appearance, this is the main place of worship in town, dedicated to one of Formello’s two patron saints, St. Lawrence and St. Prudence.
On show here is an 18th-century sundial which, after being dismantled and abandoned, and after a long period of study, was reconstructed and today still marks Formello's solar noon with absolute precision. - Church of San Michele Arcangelo
A medieval, deconsecrated church which has undergone extensive restoration work that has recently brought to light 15th and 16th century frescoes. - Villa Chigi, known as 'La Versaglia'
One and a half kilometres from the town centre, the Villa was commissioned by Cardinal Flavio Chigi, nephew of Pope Alexander VII, as a summer residence inspired by the Sun King's famous Palace of Versailles.
The large estate, rich in gardens and open spaces, includes not only the manor house but also a chapel dedicated to San Francesco di Sales and an outhouse, now reduced to ruins but still extraordinarily fascinating - currently being restored.
Well-preserved in all its grandeur stands the square shaped, three-storey 'Torre Colombaia' (Dovecot), with a square plan and developed on three floors, the original entrance to the Villa.
TRADITIONAL DISH
- Acquacotta: peasant-farmer’s soup made from vegetables and bread.
- Crostata di porsaraghi: a tart made with sweet fruits similar to medlar which abound in the area.
- Cheese
- Nocino liqueur
- Maritozzi pasquali
- Honey
- Oil
- Fried pizza
- Sanguinacci
- Tozzetti (hard biscuits with hazelnuts)
- Wine
